Continuing Konuspot 80 Digiscoping adventures

Since the last post on the Konuspot 80 I have purchased and received a T-ring adapter for my Olympus OMD-EM1. Now I can mount the camera directly on the scope. This immediately makes life easier. The next thing I did was to mount the scope on my best tripod/ballhead combination. This greatly improved the steadiness of the image.


Sadly, it seems the Rose Breasted Grosbeaks were just passing through and now that I am ready to take their picture they are gone. Oh well. To test out the new setup I tried some flower shots. The biggest problem here is that our climate in SC has changed. Now we have day after day of dry air with lots of wind, unlike the usual humid and still days. While absolutely beautiful weather, it makes capturing flower images at high magnification challenging.


I did take some test shots. Most were soft. I bumped up the ISO to get a higher shutter speed. Even so, focusing on a moving target is near impossible.


The results were mostly soft as I said. There was movement is some which I liked – kind of a dreamy artsy look. Nonetheless, I am waiting for calmer days.


One thing I did not expect was that I cannot use Live View on the EM1 when it is attached to the scope. I was hoping and assumed it would work. I guess since the camera does not recognize a lens is attached it will not do Live View. A perusal of the manual is in order.


In the meantime I have ordered T-ring adapters for my other cameras, the Olympus E30 and Pentax K30. With these adapters I can leave a camera on the scope all the time.

My digiscoping experience with the Konuspot 80 so far

I purchased a Konuspot 80 about a year ago with the intention of doing some digiscoping.  Eagle Optics defines digiscoping as:

Digiscoping is a unique kind of photography using a digital camera and a field spotting scope. Now you can expand your ability to photograph the wonders of nature by putting your digital camera to work with any spotting scope.

On this past Sunday, I finally got around to trying out the Konuspot 80 as a digiscope. I was not following a particular tutorial or procedure, I was basically just remembering the steps from what I had read in the not too distant past.

The Konuspot 80 is a 20X-60X x 80 scope. Mine came with a T type camera adapter and a small tripod.

First thing I noticed is the tripod is too flimsy to be of much use. Of course it didn't helpl that I was using a makeshift table constructed of deck rail, deck chairs, and large books. But I think it's safe to say a better tripod is in order. There is a lot of droop in the supplied tripod. At the magnifications we are dealing with the droop is a major problem.

My suggestion is that whatever tripod you use, get it mounted on a solid surface.

Next, I attached the camera adapter. I had planned on using my Olympus SH-1 point and shoot. There would be no mechanical connection between the camera and scope. I was unable to get a decent shot by hand-holding the camera up to the eyepiece. The fact that I had an unstable tripod setup didn't help the situation, nor did the fact that one hand was always on the camera, leaving the other to adjust the position of the scope, focus of the scope, and magnification of the scope. I quit using the SH-1 without a single image.

I got my Olympus OMD-EM1 and fitted it with a 50mm F2 macro lens. It was easier to hold this camera/lens combination up to the scope eyepiece. Using live view on the camera, I was able to get a few shots - all of which were not as sharp as they might have been. Again, the issue was having enough hands to do everything required. I gave up pretty quickly.

I came in to regroup. I realized I needed someway to attach the camera to the scope. I ordered a T to micro 4/3rds converter for the EM-1. This way I will have the camera mechanically connected to the scope and will have both hands free for other things like positioning, focus, and magnification.

So, if the adapter gets here this week I will try again this weekend.

Other issues/comments.

1. The images in the scope are sharp and bright. I think they will make good photos.

2. I was working in the shade, which required a high ISO for the photos. The brighter the view the better.

3. The bokeh with the scope was interesting.

Velbon Super Mag Macro Tripod Slider and Focus Stacking

I have been wanting to do some focus stacking images for some time. Particularly for the flowers I like to photograph. I cannot get the whole flower (petals, stamen, and pistol) in focus with one shot. By using focus stacking you can create an image which will have the entire flower in focus. Find out more about focus stacking here and here. To make this process easier, I purchased the Velbon Macro Tripod slider like the one shown below:

 

Here is Velbon's description: 

The Velbon Super Mag Macro Focusing Rail Slider, essential for precision macro photography, is made of a lightweight, corrosion-resistant magnesium alloy. Even with a steady hand, macro photography can be tricky and temperamental. The fine tuning of the Super Mag Slider helps you find the right depth of field to take precise close-up photos.

The smooth action macro-rails consist of X and Y movable tables for precisely adjusting focus. The X axis moves right and left, the Y axis moves towards and away from the operator on threaded rods. By using the included allen wrench you can separate the top and bottom tables for additional modification. Underneath the top table (Y), there are both 1/4 and 3/8-inch threaded holes for mounting the top table to a tripod. The adjustment knobs are smooth and fluid, and have just the right amount of resistance.

• 4-way adjustment - forward / backward / left / right
• Detachable lower base - changeable to 2-way slider
• Made from light weight & durable magnesium alloy
• Lateral adjustment rang: 1.2" (30 mm) / Fore/aft adjustment range: 2.4" (60 mm)
• Dimensions: 8.3 x 4.7 x 2.8 in. (210 x 120 x 70mm) / Weight: 1.04 lb. (470g)

I completed my first attempt at focus stacking using a cone flower. I took 17 images turning the rail advance screw about 1 turn each time. Here are the 17 images and the result.

 I used a program called  Combine ZP to align, scale, and stack the images. It is a free program that works remarkably well.

The Velbon unit worked well. I only wish that the X and Y movement knobs were on opposite sides. They can be made that way, and I will make the effort. More than once I had to start over because I moved the X position instead of the Y position. Here are my camera settings:

White Balance - Manual
Shutter Speed - Manual - 160
Aperture - Manual - 2.0
Mirror up delay - 5 secs

I started where the center (Highest point) of the flower was in focus and moved in in 17 increments. I mounted the slider on my ballhead.

This exercise was just that - an exercise to see how to do the setup and use the software. The Velbon slider is a vital part of the setup and it performed very well. I can also recommend the Combine ZP software.

Using the Lens Mounting Ring of the Olympus 50-200mm Telephoto Lens on a Tripod

When I first started using the 50-100mm telephoto on my tripod, I connected the camera to the tripod. The lens is a heavy lens and my ball head made it difficult to position and maintain position of the lens. I would loosen the head, focus on the subject, and then tighten the head. Then the lens would droop and my subject would not be in the right place. It was a constant battle to get the lens in the proper position. This was made even worse by the off brand battery grip that I have attached to the camera. The connection between the grip and camera is not as snug and tight as one would wish, and this increased the movement of the lens after adjusting the ball head.

Well - duh. The lens comes with a nice ring tripod mount. I knew it was time to try it out. With the lens mount, the lens mounts to the ball head and the camera just hangs off the end of the lens, supported only by the lens. This is way way better. Below is a diagram of the setup.

I attached a mounting plate on the lens mount that fits the mount on my ball head. I then tried to attach the lens to the ball head. With the camera in the landscape position, I was unable to tighten the mount at A in the diagram above. The battery grip was in the way.

Well duh - Again! The lens mounting ring has a knob(B), which when loosened, allows the lens/camera to rotate. This is for switching easily from landscape to portrait orientation. When I rotated the camera, the battery grip was out of the way, and I could clamp the lens to the ball head.

This new setup works great. The lens/camera is very stable and I am not readjusting the lens at all. I am able to set the lens once and it stays. I now have renewed faith in my ball head and tripod.

Obviously, I'm not the sharpest tack in the box, it takes me awhile to get it. Most of the time (not all) there are reasons why things are made the way they are. I will say that the literature that came with my lens didn't describe the practical use of the lens mounting ring, only how to attach it. Live and learn.

Trouble with Tripod

I have the Giottos MT-9360 tripod. I really like this tripod, but it has one weakness. When you take the center post out and rotate it, it doesn't always lock correctly. It probably would if you were very careful to tighten the bit and double check. I was photographing an object on my table with camera mounted on the center post with it rotated parallel to the table. The center post slipped and banged my camera lens into the table. While the lens still works, it is a bit jerky when focusing now. When rotating the center post, it feels like there are indentations spaced evenly through the travel. When you tighten the mechanism, it is supposed to lock the post in place. If the post is not securely seated in the indentation, it will tighten, but will easily slip. This happened to me. Bummer. The moral is to tighten the center post and check that it is secure before letting go of your camera.


Giottos MT-9360

Home made L Bracket for Olympus E Series

I wanted an L bracket for my camera to use on my Giottos ball head. This makes it easier to change from landscape to portrait and does not limit the mobility of the ball head in either position. I have a Giottos MH-1000 Large Ball Head with Independent Panning Lock with Built-in MH652 Quick Release. I bought several MH652 Quick Release spare plates and made an L bracket as shown.


I began by cutting off about two inches of one side of the L bracket. I used a grinder to dress up the edges. On the plate for the landscape position, I drilled one hole for a screw to attach the plate. I also used some clear epoxy on this plate. On the portrait side, I drilled one hole also, but used 2 screws to attach the plate. I covered the long edge of the L bracket with cork. I had to enlarge the hole in the plate for a 1/4" screw which attaches to the camera. See the pictures for details. I took it out in the field the other day. It works very well.

















February 11, 2010 Update:

I have used the "L" bracket for over a month now for portraits and landscapes. I am really happy with it. The ability to switch from portrait to landscape to portrait easily and quickly cannot be underestimated. I often leave the bracket attached even when the camera is off the tripod.